As welcome as a new book on a Sunday afternoon, a coffee like this one, with a syrupy full body and condensed brown-sugar sweetness, pulls us right in. What makes us return to it again and again is its pleasant complexity, with a pronounced brightness and floral and herbal notes lixke chamomile tea. Such a balanced coffee can only happen in the right conditions. The 2,000-member Café Occidente cooperative is located in Yacuanquer, a municipality perched on the side of the ever-active Galeras volcano. Farmers there benefit from incredibly high elevations, volcanic soils, and large, diurnal temperature swings.